Natural Dyes
Sources, Tradition, Technology and Science
Dominique Cardon
At a time when more and more plants and animals are threatened with extinction by humanity's ever-increasing pressure on the land and oceans of the planet, this book sets out to record sources of colorants discovered and used on all the continents from antiquity until the present day.
Some 300 plants and 30 animals (marine molluscs and scale insects) are illustrated and discussed by the author (recently - January 2016 - awarded the Legion d'Honneur for her scientific work), whose passion for natural dyes, with their colours of unequalled richness and subtlety, has taken her across the globe in search of dye sources and dyers. Botanical/zoological details are given for each source and the chemical structures shown for each dye. Dyes employed by different civilisations, identified by dye analyses, are illustrated and relevant historical recipes and detailed descriptions of dyeing processes by traditional dyers are quoted and explained in the light of modern science. Other current uses of such colorants, e.g. in medicine and for food and cosmetics, are also noted.
Although natural dyes have been replaced largely by synthetic dyes, increasing worldwide awareness of the harmful consequences of the pollution resulting from the production and use of some synthetic colorants has led to a significant revival and renewed interest in natural colorants. As potential renewable resources, natural dyes are an integral part of the major issue of our time - sustainable development. The aim of this book is to provide a scientific background for this important debate.
This authoritative resource is an expanded, corrected and updated translation of the award winning book Le Monde des Teintures Naturelles (Belin, Paris, 2003). It is aimed at dyers, scientists, designers, artists, weavers, spinners, curators, conservators and restorers, museums, research institutions...all those who have a professional or personal interest in, or passion for, colour.
Foreward
Acknowledgements
About this book
Abbreviations and acronyms
PART 1. THE ART OF DYEING
The experience of centuries
Dyeing techniques and their chemical principles
Direct dyeing • Vat dyes: indigo and shellfish purple • Mordant dyes
When to dye - fibre, yarn or cloth?
Fibre or fleece dyeing • Yarn or skein dyeing • Piece dyeing
Recipes: preparation of fibres, mordants and dyes
Preparation of the fibres • Mordanting • Dyeing
Kusaki-zome: a Japanese synthesis of ancient tradition and modern chemistry
The discovery and mastery of mordants and mordanting
Aluminium mordants
Native alums • Manufactured alums • Plants as sources of aluminium
Iron mordants
Ferrous sulphate, copperas or green vitriol • Iron acetate • Black mud
Copper mordants
Tin mordants
Chromium mordants
PART 2. DYE-PLANTS
Reds, violets, russets: safflower and quinone dyes
Safflower
Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L. Compositae)
Naphthoquinone dye-plants
-Purple-dyeing Boraginiacea
Alkanet or dyer's bugloss (Alkanna tinctoria (L.) Tausch.) • Hairy onosma (Onosma echioides L.) • Soghagul (Arnebia euchroma (Royle) I.M. Johnston) • Zi cao or murasaki (Lithospermum erythrorhizon Siebold Zuccarini) • Carolina puccoon or hairy puccoon (Lithospermum caroliniense (Walt. ex J.F. Gmel.) MacMill) • Jinin mutum (Arnebia hispidissima (Sieber ex Lehm.) DC)
-Fawn-dyeing Juglandaceae: walnut's of Europe, Asia and America
Walnut (Juglans regia L.) • Black walnut (Juglans nigra L.) • Butternut tree (Juglans cinerea L.) • Peruvian or Ecuador walnut (Juglans neotropica Diels)
-Fawn/brown dyeing Ebenaceae: the African equivalents of walnut dyes
Magic gwarri (Euclea divinorum Hiern) • Bluebush (Diospyros lycioides Desf.)
Henna (Lythraceae): the universal dye-plant
Henna or Egyptian privet (Lawsonia inermis L. (= L. alba Lamk.))
Anthraquinone dye-plants
-Russet-dyeing Polygonaceae: rhubarbs, docks and sorrels
Medicinal or Chinese rhubarb (Rheum officinale Baillon and Rheum palmatum L.) • Garden rhubarb (Rheum x hybridum Murray) • Himalayan rhubarbs (Rheum australe D. Don., Rheum moorcroftianum Royle, Rheum nobile Hook. f. & Thoms.) • Monk's rhubarb (Rumex alpinus L.) • Patience dock (Rumex patientia L.) • Broad-leaved dock (Rumex obtusifolius L.) • Curly or yellow dock (Rumex crispus L.) • Garden sorrel or sour dock (Rumex acetosa L.) • Mekmoko (Rumex abyssinicus Jacq.) • Canaigre or tanner's dock (Rumex hymenosepalus Torrey)
-Reddish-brown to purplish-dyeing Rhamnaceae: buckthorns, pitti and laba
Alder buckthorn (Frangula alnus Miller) • Common buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica L.) • Evergreen buckthorn (Rhamnus alaternus L.) • Red creeper, pitti or raktapita (Ventilago madraspatana Gaertner) • Laba (Ventilago neocaledonica Schlechter)
A world of reds: Rubiaceae plants rich in red anthraquinone dyes
The queen of the reds: dyer's madder
Dyer's madder (Rubia tinctorum L.)
-European Rubiaceae with red colorants
Wild madder (Rubia peregrina L.) • Dyer's woodruff (Asperula tinctoria L.) • Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum (L.) Scop.) • Yellow lady's or Our Lady's bedstraw (Galium verum L.) • Great lady's or hedge bedstraw (Galium mollugo L.) • Scotch mist (Galium sylvaticum L.) • Northern bedstraw (Galium boreale L.)
Asian Rubiaceae with red colorants
-Madders (Rubia spp.)
Indian madder or munjeet (Rubia cordifolia L.) • Naga madder (Rubia sikkimensis Kurz) • Japanese madder or akane (Rubia akane Nakai)
-Other Rubiaceae of Asia and Oceania
Chay root (Oldenlandia umbellata L.) • Indian mulberry, al or mengkudu (Morinda citrifolia L.) • Mengkudu hutan or mengkudu akar (Morinda umbellata L.)
African Rubiaceae with red colorants
Ouanda (Morinda geminata DC) • Brimstone tree or oruwo (Morinda lucida Benth.) • Bongo (Danais fragrans (Lam.) Pers.) • Bongontany (Pentanisia veronicoides (Baker) K. Schum.)
Rubiaceae of New Zealand with orange colorants
Raurekau (Coprosma australis (A. Rich.) Robinson) • Other Coprosma spp.
American Rubiaceae with red colorants
Dye or stiff marsh bedstraw (Galium tinctorium L.) • Raiz de teñir or relbún (Relbunium hypocarpium (L.) Hemsl. ssp. hypocarpium) • Other Relbunium spp.
A wealth of yellows: plants containing flavonoids
Yellow dye-plants of major economic importance: from craft to industrial scale
-Yellow dye-plants containing luteolin
Weld or dyer's mignonette (Reseda luteola L. Resedaceae) • Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L. Compositae) • Dyer's broom or dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria L. Leguminosae) • Flax-leaved daphne or Mediterranean mezereon (Daphne gnidium L. Thymelaeaceae) • Other species of Thymelaeaceae
-Avignon and Persian berries: Rhamnaceae giving yellow dyes
Dyer's or rock buckthorn (Rhamnus saxatilis Jacq. Rhamnaceae) • Rhamnus lycioides L. Rhamnaceae • Other buckthorn fruit sources of yellow dyes
-Yellow dyewoods
Young fustic, Venetian sumac or wig tree (Cotinus coggygria Scop. Anacardiaceae) • Dyer's mulberry or old fustic (Maclura tinctoria (L.) D. Don ex Steud. Moraceae) • Black or quercitron oak (Quercus velutina Lam. Fagaceae)
Flavonoid yellow dye-plants of Asia
-Luteolin-containing grasses (Gramineae)
Kobunagusa (Arthraxon hispidus (Thunb.) Makino) • Chinese grass or eulalia (Miscanthus tinctorius (Sieb. & Steud.) Hackel)
-Dyes used by the desert nomads from Arabia to central Asia
Arfaj (Rhanterium epapposum Oliv. Compositae) • Yellow larkspur (Delphinium semibarbatum Bien. ex Boiss. Ranunculaceae) • Bastard hemp (Datisca cannabina L. Datiscaceae)
-Asian yellow-dyeing Leguminosae and kamala (Euphorbiaceae)
Japanese pagoda tree or Chinese yellow berries (Sophora japonica L.) • Bastard teak or Bengal kino (Butea monosperma Taubert) • Wars or wild hops (Flemingia grahamiana Wight & Arn.) • Kamala or monkey face tree (Mallotus philippensis (Lam.) Müll. Arg.)
-Yellow dyewoods of Asia (Moraceae)
Jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam. and Artocarpus asperulus Gagnepain) • Kayu kuning or soga tegeran (Maclura cochinchinensis (Lour.) Corner)
American yellow dye-plants containing flavonoids
-Another yellow dyewood of the Moraceae family
Osage orange (Maclura pomifera (Rafinesque) C.K. Schneider)
-American yellow-dyeing Compositae
Canadian golden rod (Solidago canadensis L.) • Common or rubber rabbitbrush
(Chrysothamnus nauseosus (Pallas ex Pursh) Britton) • Ch'illka ch'illka (Baccharis salicifolia (Ruiz & Pavón) Pers.) • Colombian chilca (Baccharis latifolia (Ruiz & Pavón) Pers. = B. floribunda Kunth.) • Quito chilca (Baccharis quitensis HBK) • Pahuau or tickseed (Coreopsis sp.) • Kiko or uchuj ppirka (Bidens triplinervia Kunth)
Flavonoids, but not yellow
Plant sources of anthocyanin colorants
Fruit • Flowers • Leaves
-Anthocyanin dyes from fruits
Bilberry, whortleberry, blaeberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L. Ericaceae) • Other speceis of bilberry used for dyeing • Elder (Sambucus nigra L. Caprifoliaceae) • Dwarf elder, danewort (Sambucus ebulus L. Caprifoliaceae) • Grapevine (Vitis vinifera L. Vitaceae) • Other berries used for dyeing
-Anthocyanin dyes from flowers
Hollyhock (Alcea rosea L. Malvaceae) • Roselle or karkadeh (Hibiscus sabdariffa L. Malvaceae)
-Leaves as sources of anthocyanin dyes
Red sorghum or dyer's guinea corn (Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench subsp. bicolor Gramineae) • Chica or cricket vine (Arrabidaea chica (Humb. & Bonpl.) B. Verl.
Bignoniaceae)
Logwood
Logwood tree (Haematoxylum campechianum L. Leguminosae)
Trees with soluble redwoods: brazilwoods (Leguminosae, Caesalpinioideae)
Sappanwood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) • Pernambuco or brazilwood (Caesalpinia echinata Lamarck) • Peachwood, nicaragua wood (Haematoxylum brasiletto Karsten)
Trees with insoluble redwoods: red sandalwood, narrawood, barwood, camwood
-Leguminosae, Papilioniodeae, Dalbergiae
Red sandalwood, sanderstree (Pterocarpus santalinus L.) • Narrawood, Andaman redwood or padauk (Pterocarpus indicus Willd.) • Barwood, African coralwood or African padauk (Pterocarpus soyauxii Taubert) • Tukula or mkulungu (Pterocarpus tinctorius Welw.)
-Leguminosae, Papilionoideae, Sophoreae
Camwood (Baphia nitida Afzel. ex Lodd.)
Yellow, but not flavonoids
Carotenoid dyes from flowers and fruits
Saffron (Crocus sativus L. Iridaceae) • Cape or Gardenia jasmine (Gardenia augusta (L.) Merrill Rubiaceae) • Night jasmine or tree of sorrow (Nyctanthes arbortristis L. Oleaceae) • Indian toon or Indian mahogany (Toona ciliata M.J. Roemer Meliaceae) • Annatto (Bixa orellana L. Bixaceae) • Tiriba (Cochlospermum tinctorium Perr. ex A.Rich Cochlospermaceae)
The most popular yellow colorant in the world
Turmeric (Curcuma longa L. (= C. domestica Valeton) Zingiberaceae)
-Asian sources of berberine yellows
Chinese or Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii DC Berberidaceae) • Other speice of Berberis and Mahonia used for dyeing in Asia • Amur cork tree (Phellodendron amurense Rupr. Rutaceae) • Huangteng (Fibraurea tinctoria Lour.) and Fibraurea recisa Pierre Menispermaceae)
-Plant sources of berberine and other yellow alkaloid dyes in America and Africa
Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium (Pursh) Nutt. Berberidaceae) • Other American species of Berberis and Mahonia used as dyes in America • Goldthread (Coptis trifolia (L.) Salisbury Ranunculaceae) • Bloodroot or red puccoon (Sanguinaria canadensis L. Papaveraceae) • Gangamau (Cryptolepis sanguinolenta (Lindl.) Schltr. Asclepiadaceae)
Cocaigne to cowboys: indigo plants, indigo blues
Chemistry of natural indigo: the formation of indigotin and related substances from indigo plants
Indigo-producing substances in the plants • Chemical process of indigo formation,
constituents of natural indigo
Dyeing with natural indigo
Dyeing with fresh leaves of indigo plants • Methods for extracting and preserving plant
indigo • Dyeing with woad or gara balls, couched woad or sukumo • Indigo vats of India and Iran • Indigo vats of Central and South America • The urine vat • The 'chemical' vat • The vats of the future?
Indigo plants
The major plant sources of indigo
-Indigo plants (Indigofera spp., Leguminosai, Papilionoideae)
Indian indigo or common indigo (Indigofera tinctoria L.) • Platanillo (Indigofera suffruticosa Miller) • Jiquilite (Indigofera micheliana Rose) • Natal indigo (Indigofera arrecta Hochst. ex A. Rich.) • Indigofera coerulea Roxb.
-Woads (Isatis spp., Cruciferae)
Woad (Isatis tinctoria L.) • Chinese woad or tea indigo (Isatis indigotica Fortune ex Lindley)
-Knotweeds (Persicaria/Polygonum spp., Polygonacea)
Dyer's knotweed (Persicaria tinctoria (Aiton) Spach Polygonaceae)
Indigo plants of southeast Asia
-Indigo-producing Wrightia spp. Apocynaceae
Pala indigo or dyer's oleander (Wrightia tinctoria R. Brown) • Lanshu (Wrightia laevis J.D. Hooker) • Water jasmine (Wrightia religiosa (Teijsmann & Binnendijk) Bentham) • Other Wrightia spp. mentioned as sources of indigo
-Indigo-producing Acanthaceae-Acanthoideae of Asia
Rum or Assam indigo (Strobilanthes cusia (Nees) Imlay • Indigo and blue dye-plants of the hill tribes of the Golden Triangle
-Indigo-producing Asclepiadaceae
Tarum akar or Java indigo (Marsdenia tinctoria R. Brown)
Indigo plants of tropical Africa
-Indigo-producing Philenopthera spp., Leguminosae, Papilionoideae
Gara or Yoruba indigo or indigo vine (Philenoptera cyanescens (Schumach. & Thonn.) Roberty) • Gambian indigo (Philenoptera laxiflora (Guill. & Perr.) Roberty)
Indigo and blue dye-plants of tropical America
-Blue-dyeing Acanthaceae-Acanthoideae
Mohuitli or sacatinta (Justicia spicigera Schdl.) • Cuaja tinta or tinta montes (Justicia colorifera V.A.W. Graham)
-Indigo-producing American Eupatorieae
Paraguay indigo or yryvú-retymá (Koanophyllon tinctorium Arruda ex H. Kost. • Other blue-dyeing American Eupatorieae
-The indigo plant of the Lama people of Peru
Yangua or llangua (Cybistax antisyphilitica (Martius) Martius)
Into darkness: tannin plants
Brown and black dyes from Fagaceae
Pedunculate oak (Quercus robur L.) • Durmast or sessile oak (Quercus petraea (Mattuschka) Liebl.) • Other species of oaks used for tanning and dyeing • Other oak galls used for dyeing • Gall or Aleppo oak (Quercus infectoria Oliv.) • Valonian or valonea/walloon oak (Quercus ithaburensis Decne subsp. macrolepis (Kotschy) Hedge & Yalt.) • Chestnut or sweet chestnut (Castanea sativa Miller)
'Reds that grow by the river': alders (Alnus spp. (Betulaceae))
Sticky alder (Alnus glutinosa (L.) Gaertner) • Grey alder (Alnus incana (L.)
Moench) • Red or Oregon alder (Alnus rubra Bongard) • Other species of alders used for dyeing
Brown and black dyes from conifers (Pinaceae)
Eastern or Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis (L.) Carr.) • Western hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla (Raf.) Sargent)
Brown and black dyes from Anacardiaceae
Sicilian sumac (Rhus coriaria L.) • Tizra or Moroccan sumac (Rhus pentaphylla (Jacq.) Desf.) • Chinese sumac (Rhus javanica L.) • Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina L.) • Smooth sumac (Rhus glabra L.) • Fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica Aiton) • Cyprus turpentine (Pistacia terebinthus L.) • Mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus L.) • Pistacia galls • California pepper tree (Schinus molle L.) • Quebracho colorado santiagueño or coronillo (Schinopsis quebracho-colorado (Schltdl.) F.A.Barkley & T. Mey) • African grape or npeku (Lannea microcarpa Engl. & K. Krause) • Kuntunkuni or kobewu (Lannea barteri (Oliv.) Engl.) • Other species of Lannea used for dyeing
Brown and black dyes from Combretaceae: bogolan and myrobalans
African birch or ngalama (Anogeissus leiocarpa (DC) Guillemin • Perrottet) • Indian sumac or bakli (Anogeissus latifolia Wall.) • Cangara (Combretum glutinosum Perrottet) • Chebulic myrobalan (Terminalia chebula Retz.) • Belleric myrobalan or bedda nut tree (Terminalia bellirica (Gaertner) Roxb.) • Terminalia spp. used for dyeing in Africa
Mangrove dyes and tannins
Yellow mangrove or tengar (Ceriops tagal (Perr.) C. Robinson Rhizophoraceae) • Red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle L. Rhizophoraceae) • Other mangroves used as sources of tannins and dyes
Brown and black from the pod: dyes and tannins from Leguminosae
Egyptian mimosa or babul acacia (Acacia nilotica (L.) Willd. ex Del.) • Wattles: acacias used as tannins and dyes • Divi-divi (Caesalpinia coriaria (Jacq.) Willd.) • Tara or spiny holdback (Caesalpinia spinosa (Mol.) Kuntze) • Other species of Caesalpinia with tannin-rich pods
Cutch, betel, cola and cú nâu: dye and chewing matter
Cutch tree (Acacia catechu (L. f.) Willd. Leguminosae) • Gambier bush (Uncaria gambir Roxb. Rubiaceae) & Dye-yam or cú nâu (Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour. Dioscoreaceae) • Betel or areca palm (Areca catechu L. Palmae) • Cola nitida (Cola nitida (Vent.) Schott & Endl. Sterculiaceae)
Pomegranate: the dyers' golden apple
Pomegranate (Punica granatum L. Punicaceae)
Dyes from lichens and fungi
Orchils and litmus: a chemical process
Manufacture of orchils; dyeing methods used with lichens and fungi
-Orchil: from identifying orchil lichens to dyeing with the different kinds of orchils
What is meant by orchil? • How to recognise an orchil-producing lichen • Orchil preparation: Del modo de far l'orizello • The parelle d'Auvergne and its Scottish cousin cudbear • Litmus, Dutch or Flemish orchil • 'French purple'
-Dyeing with 'crotal' or crottle lichens: the boiling water method
-Dyeing with fungi
Orchil lichens
-'Weeds' or 'sea orchils', Roccella spp., Roccellaceae
Orchil lichen (Roccella tinctoria DC) • Canary orchil (Roccella canariensis Darb. em. Vain.) • Lima weed (Roccella fuciformis (L.) DC) • Roccella phycopsis Ach. • Exotic species of Roccella imported into Europe during the 19th century
-'Land' orchils: parelle, corcur, korkje and rock tripes
Crab's eye lichen (Ochrolechia parella (L.) Massal Pertusariaceae) • Parelle d'Auvergne (Pertusaria dealbescens Erichs. Pertusariaceae) • Corcur or cudbear lichen (Ochrolechia tartarea (L.) Massal Pertusariaceae) • Rock tripe (Lasallia pustulata (L.) Mérat Umbilicari aceae) • Peppered moon lichen (Melanelia fuliginosa (Fr. Ex Duby) Essl. Parmeliaceae)
Crottles and lichens for dyeing by the boiling water method
-Crottles: the lichens of Scottish and Irish tweeds
Light crottle or salted shield lichen (Parmelia saxatilis (L.) Ach. Parmeliaceae) • Dark crottle (Parmelia omphalodes (L.) Ach. Parmeliaceae) • Other species of Parmelia used in dyeing • Lungwort or oak-rag (Lobaria pulmonaria Hoffm. Lobariaceae) • Yellow wall lichen or yellow crotal (Xanthoria parietina (L.) Th. Fr. Teloschistaceae)
-Dye lichens of the Native Americans (Parmeliaceae)
Wolf moss (Letharia vulpina (L.) Hue) • Tumbleweed shield lichen (Xanthoparmelia chlorochroa (Tuck.) Hale) • Beard lichens (Usnea P. Browne ex Adanson including: U. cavernosa Tuck; U. filipendula Stirton; U. florida (L.) Web. ex Wigg. em. Clerc; U. hirta (L.) F. H. Wigg.; U. subfloridana Stirt.; U. scabrata Nyl.) • Lichen dyes in Peru and Chile
Fungi for dyeing
-Polypores in historic dye recipes (Polyporales)
Larch agaric (Laricifomes officinalis (Vill. ex Fr.) Kotlaba • Pouzar Polyporaceae s.l.) • Tinder bracket (Fomes fomentarius (L. ex Fr.) Fr. Polyporaceae s.l.) • Mulberry polypore (Polyporus mori (Pollini) Fr. Polyporaceae) • Shaggy bracket or hispidus canker (Inonotus hispidus (Bull. ex Fr.) Karsten Hymenochaetaceae) • Indian paint fungus (Echinodontium tinctorium Ellis • Everh. Echinodontiaceae) Cinnamon bracket (Hapalopilus rutilans (Pers. ex Fr.) Karsten Polyporaceae s.l.) • Cinnabar bracket (Pycnoporus cinnabarinus (Jacq. ex Fr.) Karsten Coriolaceae)
-Mordanting fungus of the deserts
Desert shaggy mane or false shaggy mane (Podaxis pistillaris (L.: Pers.) Fr. Podaxaceae)
-The rainbow fungi
Dye-maker's false puffball (Pisolithus arhizus (Scop.: Fr.) Rauschert Sclerodermataceae) • Bloodred webcap (Cortinarius sanguineus (Wülf.: Fr.) S. F. Gray Cortinariaceae) • Paxillus atrotomentosus (Batsch. ex Fr.) Fr. Paxillaceae) • Slimy spike cap (Gomphidius glutinosus (Schaef. ex Fr.) Fr. Gomphidiaceae) • Velvet bolete (Suillus variegatus (Sw. ex Fr.) O. Ktze.
Boletaceae) • Bovine bolete (Suillus bovinus (Sw. ex Fr.) O. Ktze. Boletaceae) • Larch bolete (Suillus grevillei (Klotzsch) Singer Boletaceae) • Red cracking bolete (Xerocomus chrysenteron (Bull.) Quélet. Boletaceae)
PART 3. DYEING ANIMALS: PURPLE-GIVING MOLLUSCS AND RED DYE SCALE INSECTS
Purple from molluscs
Chemistry of purple
Precursors of purple in molluscs • Chemistry of colour production from different purple
molluscs
Purple-dyeing techniques
Direct dyeing • Purple dyeing in Pliny: direct dye or true 'vat dye'? • Technical
developments in purple dyeing: the evidence of archaeological discoveries and dye analyses
Purple-producing molluscs
-Purple molluscs used by the ancient civilisations of the Mediterranean and the Middle East
Spiny dye-murex (Bolinus brandaris (Linnaeus, 1758) Muricidae, Muricinae) • Banded dye-murex (Hexaplex (Trunculariopsis) trunculus (Linnaeus, 1758) Muricidae, Muricinae) • Red-mouthed rockshell (Stramonita haemastoma (Linnaeus, 1766) Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Thais savignyi (Deshayes, 1844) Muricidae, Rapaninae)
-Purple molluscs used by the ancient civilisations of the British Isles and Brittany
Sting winkle or oyster drill (Ocenebra erinaceus (Linnaeus, 1758) Muricidae,
Ocenebrinae) • Dog-whelk (Nucella lapillus (Linnaeus, 1758) Muricidae, Ocenebrinae)
-Purple molluscs used by native American peoples
Wide-mouthed rockshell of the Pacific coast (Plicopurpura patula subsp. pansa (Gould, 1853) Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Wide-mouthed rockshell of the Atlantic coast (Plicopurpura patula (Linnaeus, 1758) Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Kiosque rockshell (Thais kiosquiformis (Duclos, 1832) Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Red-mouthed rockshell of the eastern Pacific (Stramonita biserialis (de Blainville, 1832) Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Chanque, loco or pata de burro (Concholepas concholepas (Bruguière, 1789) Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Chocolate rockshell (Stramonita chocolata (Duclos, 1832) Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Trinidad rockshell (Thais coronata (Lamarck, 1816) Muricidae,
Rapaninae)
-Purple in Japan
Akanishi (Rapana venosa (Valenciennes, 1846) Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Chirimenbora (Rapana bezoar (Linnaeus, 1767)Muricidae, Rapaninae) • Ibonishi (Thais clavigera (Küster, 1860) Muricidae, Rapaninae)
-Purple in Asia: prospects for further research
Vermilion, scarlet and crimson: scale insect sources of anthraquinone dyes
A mystery resolved: dyer's kermes
Dyer's kermes (Kermes vermilio (Planchon, 1864) Homoptera: Coccoidea: Kermesidae)
American cochineals (Homoptera: Coccoidea: Dactylopiidae)
Domestic cochineal (Dactylopius coccus (O. Costa, 1835)) • Wild South American cochineal (Dactylopius ceylonicus (Green, 1896)) • Sylvester cochineals (Dactylopius confusus (Cockerell, 1893) and Dactylopius opuntiae (Cockerell, 1896))
The crimson-dyeing scale insects of the Old World (Homoptera: Coccoidea: Margarodidae)
Polish carmine scale insect or Polish cochineal (Porphyrophora polonica (Linnaeus, 1758)) and Porphyrophora crithmi (Goux, 1938)) • Armenian carmine scale insect or Armenian cochineal (Porphyrophora hamelii (Brandt, 1833)) • Sophora carmine scale insect (Porphyrophora sophorae (Archangelskaja, 1935)) • Egyptian carmine scale insect (Porphyrophora hirsutissima (Hall, 1924))
Lac insects (Homoptera: Coccoidea: Tachardiidae)
Common or Indian lac insect (Kerria lacca (Kerr, 1782)) • Chinese lac insect (Kerria chinensis (Mahdihassan, 1923))
Chemical appendix
Notes
List of references
Index of scientific names of dye sources
Index of vernacular names of dye sources
...an encyclopaedic study of the craft and in particular the raw materials of dyeing...the photographs and reproduction are of excellent quality, and the layout and production make this large amount of material easy to navigate...Natural Dyes is the dyestuff equivalent of the Artists' Pigments series and The Pigment Compendium rolled in to one. It is a very impressive achievement and a very desirable book indeed.
ICON News (September 2007) 33-34
I opened this book and it was wonderful; marvellous illustrations, oceans of information, and enough chemistry to be useful. It is a beautiful source of new information, even on topics I considered familiar.
Biotechnic & Histochemistry 82(4-5) (2007) 275-276
The book is an indispensable reference work for dyers, designers, artists, conservators, restorers, curators, biotechnologists and textile producers.
Textile Forum 2 (2007) 38
'Long-awaited classic' may be a reviewer's cliché but it perfectly describes this book. Dominique Cardon is without doubt the world authority on natural dyes.
Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers 224 (December 2007) 41
Among all the previous scholarship in the field - whether from the scientific, cultural, historical, or crafts-oriented perspectives, Natural Dyes brings together a depth of subject through its cross-cultural and cross-disciplinary examination of the materials, along with its comprehensive scope...Natural Dyes is a reference book, a history book, and a scientific and technical manual...one can randomly open any page and find a whole world of information revealed. Cardon...has made an enormous contribution to the field.
JAIC 47 (2008) 150-152
ISBN 190498200x
Binding Hardback
Dimensions 184 x 252mm
Pages 804
Illustrations 560 colour
Published May 2007
Price £99.00